Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Can anyone tell what the N:C ratio is here? Not good at reading these. You would want to know that Nitrogen to Carbon ratio before tilling it in because the compost could lock up your soil if it's not broken down enough. If you're only adding a few inches (60 yards for 90 beds assuming their 50 to 100 ft?), then the amending you've done to the native soil should help. If you're beds are shorter or at a depth of 4" or more of compost then you may want to balance the compost as if it is soil (I got this rec from a well-respected agronomist). The idea here is that the compost is your primary growing medium, so it should be balanced for nutrient density in the crop(s). Those are my initial thoughts.
My beds are 50’. The ones I did last fall are 4 inches deep, the ones this spring are 2-3”. I’ve already planted into some fall beds, but it’s hard to gauge what I’m seeing because we have had an unusually cold spring (down to 22 last week!). My peas are looking fine, as is spinach. My onions have been hurt by freezing, and the regrowth I’m seeing is a paler green than I’d like (but that’s also a cold weather response). I’ve top dressed those beds, but I might need to do more. I’d love to know the C:N ratio, and any other specifics about the test results (got to get better at reading them!) and I was anticipating trying to correct the compost if possible. Isn’t the compost you use somewhat low nutrient, Jesse? I remember you saying it was more a mulch than a compost.
C:N is not possible to tell from this chart but the total N value of 1.9% per weight is quite substantial for finished compost. Potash is normal and phosphorus is moderate. Based on just this it shouldn't be a bad compost for deep mulching (unless I'm missing something) as it won't overload you with nutrients when used in quantity. Keep checking growth and when you see signs of deficiency, see if extra foliar feed or liquid feeding helps. If it does you can increase your fertilizer regime a notch to complement.